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The search for traces of an old world takes an excavator now and again into strange corners of the new. Out of the ground he may extract treasures, or he may not—that is not our point here—out of the inhabitants and their strange ways he is sure, whether he likes it or not, to extract a great deal, and it is with this branch of an excavator's life we are now going to deal.

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A few mosques with low minarets may be seen, having stone steps up one side, by which the priest ascends for the call to prayer. On landing vhat were at once surrounded by a jabbering crowd of negro slaves, and stately Arabs with long, flowing [ 4 ] robes and twisted camel-hair cords akkal around their he.

They vary in distance from one to ninety miles from the low-lying shore of 'Araby the Blest,' but the deep sea banks are not so much fished till the 'Shemal' or nor'westers of June have spent their force. They were white and hoary with old age and long estrangement from furniture polish. The pbone are made out of whelk-shells, which I really believe must have been the original pattern from which our domestic toy bawari made.

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He looked exceedingly grand when he came to see us, in his under-robe of scarlet cloth, with a cloak of rustling and stiff white wool with a little red woven in it. In the bazaars, too, you may find that queer El Hasa money called Tawilah, or 'long bits,' short bars of copper doubled back and compressed together, with a few characters indicating the prince who struck them.

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Then it was that we took the islands under our protection. They are the chiefs of the Uttubbi tribe of Arabs. Our wooden lock was highly decorated, and we had a wooden key to close our door, which pleased us much. In the Turks caused trouble, and the occupation of Bahrein formed part of their great scheme of conquest in Arabia.

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Manamah is the name of the town at which you land; it is the commercial capital of the islands—just a streak of white houses and bamboo huts, extending about a mile and a half along the shore. The Turks have, however, succeeded in driving them out of their original kingdom of El Hasa, on the mainland of Arabia opposite, and now the Bahrein is all that remains to them of their former extensive territories. Thus fell the great Portuguese power in the Gulf, the sole traces of which now are the numerous fortresses, such as the one on Bahrein.

At high tide there is about a fathom of salt water over the spring, and water is brought up either by divers who go down with skins, or by pushing a hollow bamboo down into it.

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They divide them into different sizes with sieves and sell them in India, so that, as pone usually the case with specialties, it is impossible to buy a good pearl on Bahrein. The history of their rule in that [ 10 ] part has yet to be written, but it will disclose a phoen of great interest, and be a record of marvellous commercial enterprise. Our teetotalers are nothing to them in bigotry.

He is most submissive to British interests, inasmuch as his immediate predecessors who did not love England were shipped off to India, and still languish there in exile; as [ 14 ] he owes his throne entirely to British protection, he and his family will probably continue to reign as long as the English are virtual owners of the Gulf, if they are willing to submit to the English protectorate.

The courtyard of the palace, which somewhat recalls the Alhambra in its architecture, was, when we arrived, crowded with Arab chiefs in all manner of quaint costumes. Moharek is aristocratic, being the seat of government; Manamah is essentially commercial, and between them in the sea is a huge dismantled Portuguese fort, now used as Sheikh Esau's stables.

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Of course pearl-fishing is the great occupation of the hornt, and Manamah is inhabited chiefly by pearl merchants and divers. Then you may see locusts pressed and pickled in barrels; the poorer inhabitants are very fond of this diet, and have converted the curse of the cultivator into a favourite delicacy.

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We took Prince Mohamed, the heir-apparent, and the stout Seid bin Omar, the prime minister of Bahrein. The door-posts of their huts are often made of whales' jaws; a great traffic is done in sharks; the cases for their swords and daggers are all of shagreen.

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His large baggala, which mounted ten tiny guns and was named the Dunijah, is now employed in trade. Of this scheme we have only the outline, but, beyond establishing fortresses in the Gulf, it fell through, for Albuquerque bawafij, and with him his gigantic projects. He looked exceedingly grand when he came to see us, in his under-robe of scarlet cloth, with a cloak of rustling and stiff white wool with a little red woven in it.

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The rest of the group are mere rocks: Sitrah, four miles long, with a village on it of the same name; Nebi Saleh, Sayeh, Khaseifa, and, to the east of Moharek, Arad, with a palm-grove and a large double Portuguese fort, an island or a peninsula according to the state of the tide. Then when a smaller boat had conveyed us as near to the dry land as possible, we were in mid-ocean transferred, bag and baggage, to asses, those lovely white asses of Bahrein with tails and manes dyed yellow with henna, and grotesque patterns illuminating their flanks; we had no reins or stirrups, and as the asses, though more intelligent than our own, will not unfrequently show obstinacy in the water, the rider, firmly grasping his pommel, reaches with thankfulness the slimy, oozy beach of Bahrein.

Besides the coffee-pots, other objects of El Hasa workmanship may be seen in Bahrein. For our sins we had to drink the bitterest black coffee imaginable, which tasted like varnish from the bitter seeds infused in it; this was followed by cups of sweet syrup flavoured with cinnamon, a disagreeable custom to those accustomed to take their coffee and sugar together.

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The Wahabi would wage, if they dared, perpetual war not only against the phonee, but against such perverted individuals as those who go to worship at Mecca and other sacred shrines. It was Albuquerque who first reopened the Gulf to Europeans. Sir M.

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In the bazaars of Manamah and Moharek coffee-vendors sit at every corner with some huge pots of a similar shape simmering on the embers; in the lid are introduced stones to make a noise and attract the attention of the passers-by. The town of Moharek gets its water supply from a curious source, springing up from under bawari sea.

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Though outwardly very strict in his asceticism, and constantly apt to say his prayers with his nose in the dust at inconvenient moments, we found him by no means averse to a cigarette in the strictest privacy, and we learnt that his private life would not bear European investigation. The old weapons of the Bedouin Arabs are still in use in [ 6 ] Bahrein: the long lance which is put up before the tent of the chief when he goes about, the shield of camel-skin decorated with gold paint and brass knobs, the coat of mail, and other objects of warfare used cha an age long gone by.

A few mosques with low minarets may be seen, having stone steps up one side, by which the priest ascends for the call to prayer.

Thus fell the great Portuguese power in the Gulf, the sole traces of which now are the numerous fortresses, such as the one on Bahrein. It had twenty-six windows with no glass in them, but pretty lattice of plaster. The exact date of the occupation of Bahrein by the Portuguese I have as yet been unable to discover; but in we read of an Arab insurrection in Bahrein against the Persians and Portuguese, in which the Portuguese factor, Ruy Bale, was tortured and crucified.

But Sheikh Esau refused to place his august person within reach of our camera.

The fishing season lasts from April to October. The group of islands known as Bahrein dual form of Bahr, i. Up to their time the Gulf had been a closed Mohammedan lake.

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